Stand in front of the indoor unit and put your hand in the airflow. If the air is cool but the room is not getting cold, you have a weak-cooling problem. If the air itself is warm or hot — warmer than the room, or the same as the room — you have a different problem, and a shorter list of causes.
That distinction matters, because warm air means the cooling side of the machine has stopped working altogether rather than working badly. Either the AC has been told not to cool, or the part of it that does the cooling is not running.
Work through this page in order. The first section costs nothing and takes two minutes, and in a lot of Delhi homes it ends the problem there.
A note first. XpertWorker is a marketplace, not a service company. We do not set any professional’s price and we never charge you a paisa. Every professional quotes you free before starting, and you pay them directly.
In this guide
First: check the mode on the remote
Do this before anything else. It is free, it takes two minutes, and it is genuinely the answer in a large share of “my AC is blowing hot air” complaints.
- 1. Look at what mode the remote is in. Most remotes cycle through Cool, Dry, Fan and Auto with one button, and many also have Heat. In Fan mode the AC is only a table fan bolted to your wall — it moves room air around and cools nothing. In Heat mode, on a reverse-cycle or hot-and-cold unit, it will deliberately blow hot air at you. Set it to Cool and watch the display change.
- 2. Check the set temperature. If someone has left it at 30°C, the AC has already reached its target and has no reason to cool. Drop it to 24°C and give it fifteen minutes with the door shut.
- 3. Check the remote is actually reaching the AC. If the indoor display does not change when you press a button, the AC may still be sitting in whatever mode it was last set to, even though your remote screen says Cool. Our guide on an AC remote that is not working has two quick tests for this.
- 4. Rule out the season change. Hot-and-cold units get switched to Heat in December and forgotten. The first hot week in March, they blow hot air and everybody assumes the machine has died.
- 5. Reset it. Switch the AC off at the wall, wait five minutes, switch it back on and set Cool. This clears a control board that has locked into a strange state, and it costs nothing.
If the mode is correct, the setpoint is low, the display responds and the air is still warm, move on to the outdoor unit.
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Get free quotesIs the outdoor unit running at all?
This is the single most useful thing you can look at, and it splits the diagnosis in two. Go and stand near the outdoor unit while the AC is set to Cool at a low temperature.
- Fan spinning and a steady hum from the compressor. The cooling side is running. Your problem is most likely refrigerant or airflow, covered in the next two sections.
- Completely silent, nothing turning. The cooling side is not running at all, which is exactly why the indoor unit is blowing room-temperature air. Nothing about refrigerant explains this, and a gas refill will not fix it.
- Humming or buzzing but the fan is not turning. The unit is trying to start and cannot. This usually points at the capacitor, and it is the pattern to describe on the phone.
If it is silent, check these before assuming the worst. Many Delhi flats have a separate breaker or an isolator switch for the outdoor unit, often out on the balcony or in the shaft, and it can trip on its own during a summer voltage swing. Look at the distribution board for a breaker that is down, and look for a small switch or isolator box near the outdoor unit itself. If a breaker has tripped, one reset is fair — but if it trips again, stop and read our guide on an AC that trips the MCB.
Also give it time. Almost every split AC has a built-in restart delay of roughly three minutes after power is restored or the compressor stops, to protect it. During a Delhi afternoon of short cuts and restorations, an AC can spend a lot of time in that delay, blowing room air while it waits. That is the machine protecting itself, not a fault. Our page on an outdoor unit that is not running goes through this case in detail.
Outdoor unit running but the air is still warm: refrigerant loss
If the outdoor unit is running properly and the indoor air is still warm, a serious loss of refrigerant is the likeliest remaining cause. When the charge falls far enough, the system stops transferring heat at all and the indoor unit simply circulates room air.
The thing to understand before anyone quotes you: refrigerant is not fuel and it is not consumed. An AC is a sealed circuit. If the gas has gone, it leaked out. So the only useful question when a refill is proposed is where is the leak, and a competent technician will have pressure-tested the system and be able to point at the joint or the section of coil. Our guide on gas refill charges in Delhi NCR explains what drives that job.
Signs that fit refrigerant loss rather than an electrical fault:
- It got worse gradually. Cooling faded over weeks or across a season rather than stopping overnight.
- Ice or frost on the copper pipe or the indoor coil. A partly starved system frosts up before it stops cooling. See our page on an AC that is icing up.
- A hissing or bubbling sound from the indoor unit or near the pipe joints.
- Oily residue on the copper flare nuts or the outdoor unit valves, since refrigerant carries oil with it.
This is not a do-it-yourself job under any circumstances. A sealed refrigerant circuit is under pressure and needs proper recovery and charging equipment. There is nothing on the outside of the unit you can adjust to put gas back in it.
When it is the capacitor or the compressor
If the outdoor unit hums, strains or does nothing at all, the fault is electrical or mechanical rather than refrigerant. Two parts account for most of these, and they are very different in scale.
- The capacitor — check this first, always. A capacitor gives the compressor and the outdoor fan the kick they need to start turning. When it weakens, the unit hums for a few seconds and cuts out, or the fan sits still while the compressor buzzes. It is a small, common, inexpensive part, it is the most frequent real cause of a silent outdoor unit, and it fails often in Delhi because heat is what kills capacitors. Ask about it by name before anyone says the word compressor.
- The contactor. This is the switch that feeds power to the compressor. Its contacts pit and burn over years of switching. A failed contactor means the outdoor unit never gets power at all, so it stays silent while the indoor fan runs happily.
- The compressor itself. The expensive one, and the last thing to conclude, not the first. A genuinely failed compressor usually comes with a history: it was tripping the breaker, or getting noisy, or cutting out after twenty minutes for weeks before it stopped. A compressor that supposedly died overnight on a machine that was fine yesterday deserves a second opinion. Our guide on compressor replacement sets out what actually drives that decision.
- On an inverter AC, the control board. Inverter units drive the compressor through electronics rather than switching it on and off, so a failed board means the compressor never runs and the indoor unit blows room air. There is usually an error code or a blink pattern on the display — write it down. See our pages on a blinking AC light and inverter AC PCB repair.
None of these are DIY. A capacitor holds a charge even after the power is off, and the outdoor unit carries live wiring. Look, listen and describe — do not open covers.
When to call someone, and what to tell them
Call once the free checks are done and the air is still warm. What you say on the phone decides whether the technician arrives with the right part or has to come back.
- Say the air is warm, not weak. “The air coming out is as warm as the room” is a different job from “it is not cooling enough”, and it changes what they bring.
- Say what the outdoor unit is doing. Running normally, humming without turning, or completely silent. This is the most valuable sentence in the call.
- Say how it started. Overnight, or faded over weeks. Sudden points electrical; gradual points at refrigerant.
- Say whether a breaker tripped and whether it stayed on after you reset it once.
- Read out any error code or blink pattern on the indoor display, exactly as you counted it.
- Mention the age of the unit and when it was last serviced.
Then a few things to hold firm on. Do not accept a gas refill for an outdoor unit that never starts. Ask for the capacitor to be checked and ruled out before anyone proposes a compressor. Ask what was measured, not just what was concluded — supply voltage and running current are real numbers a competent technician can give you. Ask for the old part back when anything is replaced. And get a second opinion on any compressor or board verdict.
If the air turns out to be cool but simply not cool enough, you are on the wrong page in a useful way — read our guide on an AC that is not cooling instead. If the unit keeps shutting down on its own, see an AC that turns off by itself. And once it is fixed, our summer AC care tips for Delhi and AC service guide cover keeping it that way.
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Get free quotes →Frequently asked questions
Why is my AC blowing hot air instead of cold?
Why is my AC throwing hot air even though it is on Cool?
My AC air is not cold at all. Is it a gas problem?
Can the AC remote make the AC blow hot air?
Why does my AC blow warm air only in the afternoon?
Does hot air from my AC mean the compressor has failed?
How we put this guide together
This guide is compiled from common Delhi NCR service patterns and reviewed by the XpertWorker team. XpertWorker connects you with independent, local professionals — we never charge you a paisa, and each professional sets their own price and quotes you free.